When teaching your dog to heel, you’ll probably have to start outdoors. Even if you have a small dog and lots of space indoors, heeling is a pretty silly thing to do inside. And most dogs can see that this is so. There’s no reason why you can’t start out in a fairly quiet outdoor spot and, as your dog catches on, gradually begin to work him around distractions.

Start with a “Sit, Stay.” Call your dog to your left side, guiding him with his leash, and say “Sit.” This is the heel position: the dog is sitting at your left side, facing straight ahead, his head and shoulders even with your hip. You are both now ready to begin. But first, check and make sure your dog is sitting straight. If he is not, when you start to walk forward, he will either cross in front of you and trip you, or, if he is pointed away from you, he may not even notice that you have started without him.

Having him sit straight inspires him to pay attention. So if he sits crooked, take the time to straighten him each and every time you practice the heel. This means he is facing the same way you are so that when you begin to walk, you and your dog will be parallel. In addition, since the dog is naturally attuned to body language, you are going to cue him by beginning to walk on your left leg, the leg closest to him. You will also move your left leg last, taking a full step with the right and closing up with the left.

In this way, the dog will not only follow the word “Heel,” but he will follow your left leg, the one he can see better since it is closer to him. To reinforce this, from now on when you leave
your dog on a “Stay,” leave by moving your right leg first. In this case, since the dog will not be with you, it does not matter which leg you move last when you stop. So when your dog is moving along with you, start and stop on the left leg and when your dog is remaining behind, leave him there moving your right leg first.

With your left leg, walk forward, say his name, then “Heel.” Walk at a nice, brisk pace. If he remains seated or lags, tug and release with the leash, repeating the command “Heel.” If he forges ahead, jerk him back and then release the leash, saying “Heel” or “No, Heel!” as you make the correction. Save his name for positive reenforcement. Do not work with a tight leash, forcing the dog to remain at your side. It is better to jerk and release. If you force him to stay in the heel position, he will never learn to assume it on his own on a loose leash.

When correcting him, jerk the leash so that you actually move your dog’s front feet back to the place they should be. Do not merely tug away at his neck. This is merely annoying without being constructive; it does not tell the dog where he should walk. As you correct, also sweeten the work by patting your left leg, talking to him, praising him for each and every step taken without the need for a correction.

When you stop, make sure you move your left leg last and your dog must sit. Say “Sit.” Praise him when he does. This sit is supposed to be automatic. By the end of your first week of daily practice, your dog should start to sit without being reminded whenever you stop walking. Always praise him for doing so by saying “Good Dog” in your warmest voice and leaning down and hugging him against your leg. You do this by swinging your arm around his left side and back onto his chest. Hugging him against your leg reinforces the heel position as well as the automatic sit, which inspired the hug in the first place.

Don’t expect your heeling exercises to work smoothly right away or even all the time. Even dogs have good days and bad days. If your dog is having a bad day, he may still execute a near perfect “Sit, Stay.” But he may be too distracted to heel well. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t practice. But you might want to cut your practice short this time. Be sure to end on a positive note by doing something your dog will do well even on his bad days. Lessons should end sweetly so that both of you will want to get back to work again the next day.

Of course, if your dog is having a bad day every day, there’s something wrong in your training program. How do you train your dog? Are you clear with your instructions? Are you patient, or do you shrug your shoulders and quit in the middle? Are you fair, swift, and forgiving? Are you working long enough? You should practice for at least  half an hour a day. Practice ten minutes on your dog’s morning walk after he has relieved himself and twenty minutes on his evening walk.

Once a week or so, work for forty-five minutes or an hour at one shot. Even a five month old puppy can handle it if given a rest in the middle. Ask yourself if your expectations are high enough. Your dog can read your attitude, and he can fulfill it, too. He is not dumb. He can learn to work beautifully, no matter what his breed. It’s only a matter of time until he heels well. Be patient and keep working.

If you have passed the above criteria and your dog is still having seven bad days a week, perhaps you are not attentive when you train. Your dog will know this, too, and if you don’t pay attention to his work, he won’t pay attention to it either. Why should he? But if you do give him thirty minutes a day of your full attention, you’ll end up with a well-trained dog.

When you are out working and teaching your dog the virtues of heeling, sprinkle in all his other commands as well. It will give the work variety. It will teach your dog to make smooth transitions between commands, that which will make him look like an intelligent, working creature. This magic usually happens about five weeks along in the training. That’s the time when many dogs seem to understand the larger picture, when things click. However, your dog may get the point in four weeks - or in eight.

Don’t worry about it. Just enjoy it when you see it happen. At that point, when he’s attentive without reminders, when he’ll heel with few corrections, when he sits automatically whenever you stop, when he executes his commands on verbal cue without additional manipulation, continue to practice, occasionally pushing the time so that he learns to work for a longer period without a break. Also, intersperse play with your training. And, when you’re safely indoors and at home, begin some of his off leash puppy work. By now, he’s coming along so well that nothing could stop you!

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Behaviur Problems: Chasing Cars & How To Prevent It

In young pups or dogs that have only chased a few times, correction is far simpler than if the dog has been chasing for more than a few weeks. Early correction can usually be made by transforming the stimulus, whether it is a car, bicycle, motorcycle, children on skates, etc, from an attractive to an aversive stimulus. One of the most effective methods involves the “monkey-see, monkey-do” principle. This requires the cooperation of one or several car owners who are prepared for the dog and stop their vehicle before any injury can be sustained. If bicycles, motorcycles or other stimuli cause the chase, these of course should be employed.

The owner should walk with the dog toward the street from various starting points the dog has used in the past or would be likely to use in the future for its attacks. Just as the dog starts to break into its run, the owner should suddenly reverse direction away from the vehicle, shouting as if fearful. The vehicle’s operator must slam on the brakes, screeching the tires to a halt, after which the vehicle and operator must remain still until owner and dog have retreated to their own property and have gone from sight. Then, the vehicle should be driven or pedaled onward and a repeat performance set up.

The process must be repeated until the owner no longer needs to reverse his direction to stimulate the dog to retreat back to its own property. This may take as many as 20 repetitions, with the cooperating operators and vehicles rotating their appearances. When this is accomplished, the same method is used, with the owner absent from the scene, to test the degree of conditioning obtained. If the dog resumes chasing the vehicles, the procedure should be started anew until success is achieved.

The value of this method is best demonstrated in young dogs or those that have recently acquired the behavior. In older and more experienced dogs, more preparation and work are required. The tenacious chaser is usually one that has been at it for more than a few weeks. Underlying causes frequently involve more than simple satisfaction of a chase reflex. Many affected dogs have suffered severe injuries from their “conquests” after catching up with the mechanical prey, and yet have persisted in their folly to chase cars and other fast-moving vehicles.

In these cases, the total environmental and behavioral background must be examined to determine the causative factors; these must then be removed. Possible inciting causes include:

• Barrier or tether frustration.
• Wandering free around the neighborhood.
• Regular walks and urine marking.
• Tendencies acquired through the owner’s previous anxiety or overt chase behavior of vehicles or children on skates, skateboards, bikes, etc.

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Puppy Jumping And How To Prevent It

Puppy training can be taught in many various different forms, and it is especially important to be clear on your vocal training commands.  Your little pup may become confused if told the same things that may have different meanings to you. For a great example, let’s refer to the command words “OFF” and “DOWN”.

It is important to learn the difference between “OFF!” and “DOWN!.” When you get into obedience work, you will use the command “DOWN!” to mean that the pup will lie down. Therefore, while you’re working on the problem of jumping up on or at you, don’t use the wrong command. Tell Puppy “OFF!” And what if she doesn’t? Let’s examine why a puppy jumps before we try to eradicate jumping.

Have you ever greeted someone you love and been able to see only that person’s ankles? Don’t you want to look into the face of your beloved? So does your puppy, so, being very short, it jumps up to see you. The first thing you can do to begin to eradicate the unacceptable jumping is bending or squatting down to greet your puppy. You bend and your puppy doesn’t have to jump up to see your face. That’s an important beginning. Second, every time the puppy jumps up on you, take his/her front paws, put him off you firmly, and while you’re doing this, say “OFF!” loudly and firmly. If you do this, coupled with the bend-over greeting, while the puppy is still young, you have no need for rougher methods. Remember to pat him and say “Good Puppy” as soon as all four feet are on the floor.

Praise must always follow any attempt by the pup to do what you’ve demanded, even if the attempt is a pretty casual version of what you have in mind as ideal compliance. Your praise is your puppy’s reward for good behavior. However, maybe you have a year-old stubborn-minded dog who has been running your life his way before you read this. You don’t need me to tell you that you have a problem! You’re going to have to get rougher than the behavior described above if you want results. I suggest a knee-jerk reaction. When you see your dog coming at you to jump, bring your knee up fast against his chest. At the same time, shout “NO. OFF!” Do this every time. You may even shove with your knee. Knocking the dog down once or twice may be beneficial to it in getting the message across; certainly it’ll be beneficial to you in working off some frustrations.

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Training With A Clicker

Clickers are a fun and fast way to speed up your puppy’s learning process. Clicker training relies on behavior shaping principles that mark desired behavior.

To begin, get ten treats. Click and treat; before you are finished, your puppy will be happily alert to the sound. Now use the clicker for training and to encourage good habits.

1. House-training: When your puppy eliminates in the right area, say “get busy.” Click the instant he finishes; then treat and praise warmly.

2. Jumping: When your puppy jumps, look away, Click, treat, and pet him after all four paws are on the ground.

3. Chewing: Anytime your dog is chewing an appropriate object, click, treat, and praise.

You can iron out everyday frustrations with the clicker. Use it to encourage silence, to train him to ask to be let out, to create a positive association to kids, and more. Also use a clicker to teach basic commands such as the following:

1. “Sit” command: “Sit,” luring your dog into position with a toy or treat if necessary. Click, reward, and praise.

2. “Down” command: “Down,” luring your dog into position with a toy or treat Click, reward, and praise.

3. “Come” command: Throughout the day, command “Come” when your dog’s near you.

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Nipping And Mouthing

Mouthing and nipping are two different issues. Mouthing is a communication skill to get you to do a particular thing. Less pressure, less annoying, but still not particularly charming. Nipping is a puppy thing; it is interactive and playful. Nipping puppies are bossy and manipulative and need a firmer regimen.

Mouthing is often an attention-getting behavior. If your puppy uses it to communicate a need to go out, respond. If, on the other hand, your dog mouths you for a pat, ignore it. If he becomes too annoying, get a water spray and spritz him discreetly in front of his nose, hiding the spray in your hand and spritzing as you avoid all eye contact, comments, or pushing. When you use the spray this way, you are performing a cause-and-effect correction rather than interactive discipline. Interaction involves eye contact and physical manipulation - not good. Cause-and-effect corrections result in unpleasant reactions that your puppy will try to avoid.

Nipping is another one of those puppy things that you need to refocus. When your puppy still hung out with his litter mates, he nipped during play and to determine his rank. He also soft-mouthed his mother affectionately. When you bring your puppy home, this behavior continues.

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One of the reasons dogs have adapted so well to being human companions is that the social needs of both species are similar. Dogs and wolves live and work together in social unit called a pack, which is really what we would call a family. Because their very survival depends on working together, they have evolved a system of communication emphasizing social order and cooperation.

From families to softball teams to corporations, so, too, have we. We count on others of our kind to raise us and help us throughout our lives.

When you take a puppy into your home, you are asking her to accept your family in exchange for a canine one. And she will, quite happily and with amazingly few problems, if you hold down your end of the deal - provide her with companionship and show her her proper place in the social order. She cannot find her place in your family unless you make your puppy part of your life. Simply put, a puppy cannot bond with people she barely knows.

Bonding isn’t hard to accomplish. Spend time with your puppy. Talk to her. Sing to her. Put your hands on her. Use baby gates instead of closed doors if you don’t want her in certain parts of the house, so she can hear you and see you and feel part of the crowd. You are the only family she has from the time you take her home. Make her part of that family, and she’ll be a better pet.

One of the easiest ways to promote a fast, tight bond with your puppy is to have her sleep in a crate at the side of your bed. It’s a way to bond with without the effort: You sleep, she sleeps, but as she sleeps, she bonds. She smells your wonderful smell and hears every sound you make, all night long, and she won’t mind your snoring!
 
When I say in the bedroom, I don’t mean on the bed. Sleeping in your bed gives a dog a rather elevated idea of his station in life, and that can lead to problems. You want your puppy to know from the first that you are the boss in your house. You’re a nice boss, however, which is why you’ve provided a snuggly crate or soft bed for him to sleep on. But you’re still the boss. Period.
 
When your puppy’s all grown up and perfectly behaved, you can invite him on your bed. That’s where mine sleep. But they understand it’s a privilege, not a right. They are not allowed up unless invited, they are not up there every night, and they are never allowed up unless I’m already there. I suggest you do the same.

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Controlling Your Dog’s Whining & Barking

There are three ways to deal with your noisy dog. First, you can do nothing. In this case, the dog will keep barking whenever he feels like it and you may end up enemies with your neighbors, evicted or a victim of chronic headaches. Second, you can correct your dog whenever he goes on his noise-making marathons. You can even pretend to leave and sneak back to the house. Then, when the concert begins, you can break in on him, yelling “No, No, No, No”, while shaking him by the collar.

The third possibility is that you can teach the dog to do what he is doing on command, therefore gaining control of the activity. This is because when you issue a command, the dog focuses on you, and you will readily be able to stop what you have started. Thus the dog who speaks on command shuts up on command as well. The command “Speak” is what turns him on while the command “Enough” will turn him off.

Once your dog looks at you and whines with you, you can add a word to your madness, the word “Speak.” Now, after your dog will “Speak” on command, with and without you, begin to intrude on this activity, whether you have started it or not, with the magic word “Enough.” If your dog continues to sing, grasp the collar, command “Enough” once more and then gently shake him, adding harsh eye contact to your correction.

Of course, you may have unintentionally trained your dog to whine, cry and bark by reinforcing this annoying behavior. To find out, make a checklist of what makes your dog whine and bark and how you respond when he does:

1. Your dog barks. You give him a treat to quiet him.
2. Your dog barks when you’re on the phone. You lean over and pet him to quiet him.
3. Your dog whines while you’re in bed reading a book. You let him up on the bed to quiet him.

Follow the methods above, teaching your dog to bark on command and then stopping him with “Enough,” a harsh eye contact and a shake. Never give your dog anything, including the time of day, when he’s barking, whining or crying for it. Use the long down once a day, tighten up your training and make sure the dog is quiet before you feed him, walk him, and pet him. If the dog bothers you while you are watching TV, reading, or dining, squirt him in the mouth with water or lemon juice and go on about your business.

Noise making may seem a lesser crime than biting or destructiveness, but it can have serious consequences. In fact, it may be a sign of escalation. To stop that, as well as for its pure annoyance, it should be put under control as soon as possible.

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Puppy Training: Walking Your Puppy For The First Time

When walking your puppy for the first time, be sure to move briskly - don’t let your dog slow you down, and don’t hang around waiting for her if she’s dragging her feet. You should keep moving at a fast walk - the way you’d walk if it were raining and cold and you didn’t have your umbrella. Let your dog know that you find leash-walking to be the most thrilling, exhilarating activity in the world, and you’re certain she’ll share your opinion.

But guess what? She probably won’t share your opinion just yet, not all of the time. She may want to head off in another direction, or she may try to wind her leash around you, or she may stop cold and refuse to go any farther. Don’t be impatient. Remember, she may never have been walked by anyone before, and the whole thing is pretty confusing to her right now.

If she pulls away from you, give her a little pop on the leash - not a head-ripping haul or a dull tug, but a clean, quick jerk - in the direction she ought to be moving. (Don’t make the common mistake of jerking up on her leash - you aren’t trying to teach her to fly, after all!) Follow your leash pop with a sweet “Oh, weren’t you watching?” or “What happened?” Slowly she’ll begin to learn that it’s to her advantage to watch where you’re going.

If she darts away from you or tries to walk on your right side or in front or back of you, there’s probably too much leash between you. Move your left hand closer to her collar and try again.

If she curls up on the ground and acts as though you’re torturing her - and shelter dogs sometimes do - you’ll have to do some sweet-talking. Don’t coddle her or pet her when she’s cowering (you don’t want to reward her and make this a habit), but don’t be too hard on her, either, and of course don’t try to yank her off the ground! Try to make her confident with your voice and your body language; tell her she’s a big, brave girl, and project an air of cheer and confidence to her. Use her toy - or even a treat if necessary - to coax her to her feet. It may take a while, but if you’re patient and good-natured, you’ll be able to change her attitude.

Useful link - Puppy training

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